Hellespont Heroes

Turkey’s Dardanelle Straits (Hellespont) separating Europe and Asia and its nearby surrounding area have played an important part in world history and culture for centuries. It’s the setting of the ancient layered city of Troy dating from 3000 bce to 85 bce. Greek mythology’s story of the Trojan War as narrated by Homer in the Iliad is set in this area.

In more recent-ish history this geography had strategic importance in World War l and ll for the Turks and various allied forces.

Today it is a major shipping channel connecting the Aegean Sea to the Sea of Mamara to the Bosporus Strait and ultimately to the Black Sea. Two hundred thousand ships a year pass through the Strait bringing food, grain and energy to Ukraine, Russian and surrounding countries.

For swimmers, it importance lies once again in Greek mythology. The tragic love story of Leander’s nightly swim across the Hellespont from Asia to Europe to see his lover, Hero, a priestess of Aphrodite, and his eventual death one stormy night. English poet, Lord Byron, purportedly the first person to swim across the Hellespont on his second try also writes of this swimmers love story.

Today the Hellespont swim/race is a “must do” iconic swim for todays open water swimmer. The race is held annually on Turkey’s Victory Day (August 30th) basically their Independence Day. This year marked Turkey’s 100th year as a republic. The race is organized by the Canakkale Rotary Club and the premier swimming adventure travel company, Swim Trek.

Ten years ago to celebrate my fifth decade I swam the Bosporus Cross Continental Swim (blog link-25th Bosphorus Cross Continental Swim) in Istanbul with good success. So why not kick off my sixth decade (aka 60th birthday) at the opposite end of the Sea of Mamara in Canakkale with the Hellespont Swim and try and re-create the magic (podium).

The Hellespont Heroes were formed (well at least on WhatsApp) for this event. Jeff my swimming buddy from our Tahoe swim and our ever patient friend Tanja from Germany. Jeff and I did the Vikingsholm swim in Lake Tahoe (blog link-Until Valhalla!) this year and the three of us swam the Strait of Bonifacio last year (blog link-Buon Mare).

After some long travels days from the West Coast, Kas (Turkey) and Stuttgart we made it to Canakkale. Things got busy real quick the next day with various orientation activities for the race. SwimTrek is the marquee sponsor of the Hellespont swim and the organizer of the international swimmers (non-Turkish people). There were 880 people signed up for the swim with approximately 200 being international swimmers.

First SwimTrek held an acclimatization swim and briefing at the Trojan Beach Club. We had a chance to get in the water and stretch out a bit (it felt great) and to learn about the history of the area, the race and an understand the logistics of the next 24 hours. It was a great way to meet some new swim friends from across the globe.

Next up was a ferry trip from the Asian side to the European side and back. It was basically a recon trip of the swim course for the next day.

Simon from Swim Trek basically laid out the various sighting points swimmers should be focusing on depending on your speed. The swim is 6500 km however it swims shorter as there is strong current that can work or not in your favor. If you sight correctly, and the current works in your favor it will push you nicely into the finish line and if you don’t sight correctly…well…It sounded like I should start the swim by aiming just to left of the football stadium lights and then aim towards the castle. 🤞🏽

Post recon trip it was time to officially register for the swim. Registration in the town’s main square was centered around a huge Trojan Horse. It was actually used in the 2004 movie Troy with Brad Pitt. Registration was seamless with a nice swag bag.

During this process we met some new and fun swimmers from around the world. In particular, we enjoyed meeting Susan, Richard and Raney from the Bay Area, strong supporters of Swim Across America and Brian our new friend a diplomatic diplomat serving our country’s interests abroad.

For some reason it felt like an appropriate pre-race dinner would be pizza and white wine. It was off to bed shortly thereafter as it was an early bell the next morning.

The next morning we were motored to the Naval Museum where we checked our bags and then ultimately to the ferry terminal. Eight hundred international speedo clad swimmers boarded a ferry to the European side.

It’s kinda a surreal experience to be on a big boat with somewhat nervous people only wearing speedos, speaking different languages (mostly Turkish) trying to get their game faces on. I sat on the side of the boat facing the Asian side so I could check my sighting points over and over again.

Swimmers marched off the ferry in Ecebet (European side) to the starting area. It looked like it was going to be a fairly civil mass start funneling through a starting gate with timing pads.

Eventually the gun went off the Heroes and Brian separated as we all knew we would enter at our own pace and swim our own race. There was only mild mass confusion at he start and I followed some young Turks entering the water right (likely I should have been more left).

It was kinda wild to be swimming in the middle of this major shipping channel on such an important day for Turkey. I did a few strokes backstroke along the way to enjoy the moment and to appreciate that we were swimming between Europe and Asia. However, I was pretty focused as there was work to be done.

Keeping the football stadium lights in sight, I began to see Canakkale and the Naval Museum and the finishing area. When I got really close I realized that with the current I had drifted too far downstream and I had to fight my way upstream about 50 meters or so to the finish line. It was manageable however took more effort than I wanted. As always, crossing the finishing line is great with lots of cheering and fanfare.

Immediately, I spotted Jeff and Brian ahead of me and we had all drifted downstream and had to fight our way upstream to the finish 🤷🏼‍♂️. Tanja, per usual, wasn’t too far behind and drifted effortlessly in to the finish with her graceful and distinctive stroke.

The swim is a big deal to the locals and the awards ceremony is filled with all sort of pomp and circumstance; music, jumbo-tron, the national anthem, presentations and awards given by local officials.

It was a good Victory Day for the Hellespont Heroes as we all medaled in our age groups; Jeff-🥇, Tanja-🥈 and me-🥉!

That night Swim Trek hosted a fun celebration dinner for the international swimmers. Everyone enjoyed sharing experiences of their swim with each other and our collective time in Canakkale.

Turkey has been good to me as I kick off new decades. What is in store for me in Turkey for my seventh decade (a long time from now)?

Yet again, it shows how sport, and in this case swimming unites people from across the globe and of all abilities. A fun and busy few days sharing a new experience and meeting new people. I feel thankful.

Where will the Hellespont Heroes show up next? Stayed tuned in next blog…they aren’t done yet.

PS-I spent a couple days in Istanbul before going to Canakkale. Truly a unique and interesting world-class city.